Month: March 2018

Finding a Place for Glamour Magazine in 2018

Finding a Place for Glamour Magazine in 2018

Glamour’s new editor-in-chief Samantha Barry says she isn’t afraid of change. She had better not be; in her first foray into magazines, the CNN and BBC veteran is embarking on a comprehensive redesign of the 79-year-old title, which has struggled to gain traction in an increasingly digital media world.

Barry joined the challenged Condé Nast title just three months ago, succeeding Cindi Leive. The former editor led the publication for 16 years, turning it into what was at one point Condé Nast’s most lucrative title. The magazine still has the largest circulation at the publisher — an average of 2.3 million in the second half of 2017, according to the Alliance for Audited Media. Barry was a surprising choice, coming to the magazine with no significant prior print experience after working as the executive producer for social and emerging media at CNN.Finding a Place for Glamour Magazine in 2018

Barry’s experience attracting online audiences is key to her main goal: making Glamour relevant again. Glamour rarely generates buzz online, and risks losing both print and online readers to fast-growing upstarts like Refinery29 and Bustle. Other Condé Nast publications are grappling with the same problem. At Teen Vogue and Self, that meant shuttering print editions to focus on digital readers. A company spokesperson has denied rumours of more cutbacks in frequency coming to other titles, as well as any plans to change Glamour’s print frequency.

Since the 2016 election, fashion and beauty publications have embraced feminist positions and politics to vie for audiences online. Hearst’s Cosmopolitan has the biggest audience, New York Magazine’s The Cut is distinguished by its slate of writers. Indie title Gentlewoman is hosting intimate events.

Is Fast Fashion Slowing Down?

Is Fast Fashion Slowing Down?

The past few months have been trying for H&M. After the Swedish company (aka Hennes & Mauritz AB) released its fourth-quarter results for 2017 in January, which had its biggest profit decline in six years — 14 percent for the full year — it announced that it would be closing 170 stores in 2018 (even as it maintained that it would open 390 more around the world). Add to that a growing inventory of nearly $4 billion that many have criticized as environmentally irresponsible and it’s clear that the company is in need of a shift, CEO Karl-Johan Persson acknowledged. “The fashion industry is changing fast. At the heart of the transformation is digitalization, and it is driving the need to transform and rethink faster and faster,” he said in a January statement.

Some have pointed to H&M’s lagging production cycle compared with that of competitors like Zara, Asos and Boohoo (H&M’s cycle can take up to six months with much of its production in Asia, while others are able to manufacture and deliver product in a matter of weeks). Others have criticized its merchandising for being less than savvy, with too many basic tees and jeans, and not enough trends to compel shoppers.

But new initiatives this month from H&M and competitor Zara — along with some surprising new stats on consumer behavior — indicate a changing ethos in the fast-fashion landscape and even challenge the very idea of it.Is Fast Fashion Slowing Down?

This year, H&M is launching two initiatives that could help it diversify. The first is Afound, a brand that will sell various clothing labels — including H&M — at a discount. And last week, it dropped a prelaunch collection for /Nyden, an affordable luxury brand aimed at millennials.

The latter will focus on what the company calls “cocreation,” culling designs from various personalities (or “tribe leaders,” as the company identifies them) to create capsule collections, even inviting fans to submit photos of themselves via an Instagram hashtag “iamnyden for a chance to win a trip to Los Angeles to design their own collaboration for the brand. /Nyden will also use the “drop” system that even department stores like Barneys New York have enacted outside the traditional four-season system. The brand is a clear nod to the success of Virgil Abloh’s Off-White label, which has risen from cult T-shirt purveyor to a bona fide fashion brand.